A Global Take on Brunch at Pomelo on Church
On an unusually warm and sunny San Francisco fall morning, we sat at a cozy window table in the corner of Pomelo on Church, my hands wrapped around a comforting bowl of coffee. A surprise plate of mini-muffins appeared. They were still warm from the oven, and crispy on the outside like scones. We picked them apart, trying to figure out the ingredients. Was that macadamia nut or apple…? No, it was pear! Slivers of comice pear and hearty whole hazelnuts had us in a mini-muffin daze. “These are so good,” my friend cooed. “Handing them out is a brilliant idea. Once anyone’s had one, they’ll want to order them off the menu.”
I’ve had a lot of brunch in San Francisco, and Pomelo is the first where I’ve ordered from a “destination menu,” which included such “trips” to Seattle, Ireland, Japan, Peru and France. My friend chose to go to Cork. With corned beef, purple and sweet potatoes topped by two eggs, Cork was an adaptation between Irish meat and potatoes and a corned beef hash. While I enjoyed the creativity of the dish, I couldn’t help thinking how much more tender the corned beef would have been if the meat had been cut crosswise against the grain instead.
I ordered the Eastlake (Seattle), a contemporary twist on the old standby Eggs Benedict. Two poached eggs sat atop a mound of hash made with wild rice, pieces of smoked trout and red potatoes. Horseradish cream glistened at the bottom of the plate. The rough texture of the wild rice and the smokiness of the trout were a perfect marriage with the cool creaminess of the horseradish.
Pomelo on Church, 1793 Church Street, San Francisco, Calif. 415.285.2257